Fabrice on Film

  I designed some adapters to fit my Schneider Cinelux Anamorphic lens on a Ø49mm thread.   The adapter makes screwing and aligning much faster than other systems like clamps. It places your taking lens very close to your anamophic lens (5mm without a circular rotating filter, 15mm with a rotating filter), which will considerably reduce vignetting. It is also sturdy, made out of aluminium. On top of it, it brings way more precision to your rig than a lot of "homemade" systems, since you don't need to align both lenses on the viewing axis (you do need to rotate it however, to align the distortion). Aligning the verticals can be done either by adding a circular rotating filter (not included) or simply by loosening the screw and spinning the anamorphic lens before shooting. You can buy the first batch here, and I'll make new ones when they're all gone.  

A lot of the cameras I use from the 70s to 90s have fluorescent paint in the number or markings on the lenses. I decided to use neon paints to make numbers easier to read on some old lenses, or simply upgrading their looks. 1- I used Ikea Mala paints because they're cheap and come in 5 colors that will react to black light (pink, orange, purple, green and yellow) for less than $10 and have a needle point bottle. But you can also use any acrylic paints. 2-Daub paint on the numbers or letters you wish to paint after putting some tape to cover other areas, avoid making bubbles 3-Scrape excess paint with a piece of cardboard (like a business card, which is flexible). Wipe the other areas either immediately with fingers or qtip or wait for it to be dried to chip it off   4-The painted glyphs will now be more legible under low light and pop out under black light. Here, the orange paint I used very closely matches the one that was the manufacturer used on the zone focusing markings: Yo...